Split is the main port city of Croatia and you'll inevitably need to visit in order to get to one of the many islands off the coast of Dalmatia. But I'd skip putting down roots here in favor of exploring the other idyllic coast towns scattered up and down the countryside. Renting a car and driving south down the coast is a great way to see and explore all the coast has to offer, which is an abundance of beautiful blue sea and amazing food.
Here are my reasons to skip Split for another destination:
Cost - Croatia has become one of the top tourist destinations in Europe which is a stark contrast to its near obscurity only 10 years ago. And it's popularity is for good reason, it is one of the most beautiful countries that I've ever seen with varied attractions from stunning waterfalls, to exotic cities to explore and of course islands to hop around. However, this also means that prices are inevitably going up especially in popular tourist destinations like Split. Accommodations in Split can be 2-3x as pricey as other coast towns and typically it's challenging to find anything right on the water - if not impossible due to the port. Dining out can also have a higher price tag at restaurants in Split, especially near the port.
Crowds - Depending on when you visit Croatia (high season is June - September) you might find crowds everywhere. Bust Split, being the hub to explore other destinations, can be particularly crowded. We had a short amount of time before boarding our ferry to Hvar to see Diocletian's Palace (which forms about half the old city of Split) in June. Even at the beginning of high season, we were fighting through crowds and getting stopped behind tourists taking photos. I can't even imagine what it would be like a month later!
Experience - My favorite part of spending time on the Dalmatian coast was the extremely authentic feeling that the smaller coast cities had to offer. AirBnB's are scattered amongst the homes of locals often times right on the Adriatic Sea, where we got to experience parts of their daily routines to feel like a local. For example, it seems that every resident starts their day with a quick dip in the sea before anything else, and then inevitably make their way back in the afternoon. The sea is rumored to cure everything after all! The beaches were frequented by both English speaking tourists as well as clear locals who had their sunbathing spots picked in the early morning. You can't help but be envious of the laid-back and fulfilling lifestyles of the Croatian's you're bound to meet in these smaller coast towns.
Some cities to consider instead:
Primošten - An hour drive from Split, Primošten is a quant walled city reminiscent of Medieval times. The old town is an islet off the main country and is connected by a causeway (Primošten was named after the Croatian word primostiti which means to bridge). The old town is surrounded by a rock wall and situated on a hill giving apartments and restaurants stunning views. The town is bustling with restaurants (we really enjoyed Konoba Toni) and shops to walk around. Primošten is also home to Mala Raduča, voted one of the 10 most beautiful beaches in Croatia and is ideally located for a trip to Krka National Park which is only 40 minutes away.
Rogoznica - I may forever consider this place a little slice of heaven. We stayed in this little village for 4 days and I never wanted to leave. If you have a big group, definitely consider staying at Dom's place (link here) which is situated right on a little bay just a 15 minute walk to downtown. He was an incredible host and the location was perfect. The best way to spend a day here is to enjoy the sea on one of the many beaches (one of our favorites was at Pizzeria Punta where you can get some food and drinks and hop in the water). Walk into the town for dinner where I definitely recommend Atrium Restaurant - it was one of the best meals of the trip.
You can continue walking along the Marina which is full of caffe's and bars buzzing with nightlife and yachts lining the port. Marina Frapa was actually named the best large Croatian marina and the best marina in Croatia for 2018.
Another day, find a local with a boat to rent and go around to the little islands surrounding Rogoznica for snorkeling and exploring. Our boat took us over to the deserted lighthouse and we got off to explore the little island - it felt like being on Alcatraz all alone, so cool. You can also go swimming in Dragon's Eye Lake which is in the center of an iselet and an adventure to get to. There is plenty to explore in Rogoznica and it's a short drive to Primošten or Sibenik for dinner. I would come back here in a heartbeat!
Trogir - Trogir is the closest to Split, only a 30 minute drive from the main port city. Its preserved old town, known for its mix of Renaissance, baroque and Romanesque buildings, lies on a small island connected to the mainland similar to Primošten. This is one village that we did not get to visit, but that has come highly recommend by many. As with all of these coastal villages, the main attractions are centered around the port with bustling restaurants, bars and shops.
To be honest, there is no wrong answer when it comes to staying on Croatian's insanely beautiful Dalmatian coast. Hopefully this has opened your mind to a few destinations for your next Croatia trip!
コメント